Selecting a Tripod

It's often been said that "a tripod is your sharpest lens." Of course this is only true when you use one; if it's in the garage collecting dust, you're left to your own devices. In most cases it's easy to get a clear photo using the 1/FL rule, but in some cases a 'pod is necessary. In others, it's just desirable, either to keep the film speed down or the aperture in the range that will produce the effect you need. ( Waterfalls, star points at night, etc. )

This article contains some basic advice to help photographers narrow down their selection of tripods. First let's examine the main specifications you should be aware of:

• Weight: A cast iron tripod might be a good idea for sedentary studio photographers, but no one else would ever use one. Just as important as the weight is how it's distributed, so it's a very good idea to head to the camera store and try one in person. Make sure it'll be comfortable to carry.
• Supported Weight: A lot of manufacturers will exaggerate with this figure, so it pays to go a few pounds over what you expect to need. If you use an SLR, know what your camera weighs with the heaviest lens you have; compact camera owners don't have much to worry about here.
• Height: The maximum height is generally the most important figure here, although it can make for a dramatic perspective to bring your camera as close to the ground as your tripod will allow. Very low is more expensive than very tall. Maximum height is typically given with the center column extended; this reduces stability, so it's important to know how tall the 'pod is without raising the center column.
• Stability: Depending on your needs, there's a tremendous range of stability and price across the tripod market. Shooting 20 minute star trail exposures needs perfection, whereas a self portrait is less demanding. A tripod's rigidity will depend on its weight more than anything else, although carbon fiber does wonders for dampening vibrations. With your camera mounted, bump a leg and see how long it takes to become still.

Fewer leg sections are generally more convenient and more stable, but this is a lesser point. The four main factors above can help you eliminate most tripods that won't fit your needs. When deciding among what's left, consider the following set of features ... at least some of them should be in yours:

• Levels: Bubble levels are common in everything from a $30 special from Target to the finest Bogen. Some have angle markers at the joints.
• Spiked Feet: Landscape photographers shoot on all sorts of terrain. Spikes in the feet help a tripod grip a wet or slippery ground. Naturally, they should screw away into the feet so as not to scuff the floor.
• Leg Angles: Below about $100 it's hard to find a tripod that opens at more than one angle. Higher end models allow each leg to be individually locked at a variety of different angles. This is tremendously useful on uneven ground. An affordable model with this feature is the Quantaray Digi-Pro 8500.
• Lateral Arm: Being able to use the center column to shoot sideways is very handy. This is a feature on the higher end tripods, making it fairly expensive. It also demands more stability than most types of shooting.

Everything above is technically optional. How important each feature is depends on your genre and your budget. Most photographers demand a bubble level at a minimum to keep the horizon level while others never use one.

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